Forestry Mutual Safety Alert - Storm Damage

SAFETY WHILE WORKING ON STORM-DAMAGED TIMBER

Introduction: Woods under the tension of twisting winds and icy conditions pose a life-threatening risk. If you arrive at a site shortly after a storm, there may still be some “settling” going on. Also, lodged trees, broken tops, difficult ground conditions, walking through downed limbs and debris is particularly hazardous, and even more so if you are carrying a chainsaw, and poses specific threats in a storm-damaged area.

OVERHEAD HAZARDS

Catastrophic injury and death are the result of this ever-present risk on our jobs. To fight this risk, we must be aware and LOOK UP!!

• Proper head PPE is mandatory on the logging job.
• Look Up and Out! Identify possible risk from above.
• Don’t place your body under anything that could fall, this includes equipment.
• Maintain at least two tree lengths from any felling operation.
• Be visible!!! Wear highly visible clothing.
• Use proper felling techniques.
  
  

MAINTAIN PROPER WORKING DISTANCES

Ground personnel and moving logging equipment can create extreme risk.

• Awareness is the key to avoiding a “too close” incident.

• Proper PPE is to be worn at all times.
• High visibility clothing is essential.
• Maintain at least two tree lengths from any felling operation.
• Maintain proper distance from skidding activities.       Toppers should use shield trees whenever possible.
• Machine operators should never enter a “safe zone” provided for ground personnel.
• All employees must be aware of “blind spots” on the logging equipment.
• Be especially cautious in and around the deck area, it’s a busy place!

SLIPS/TRIPS/FALLS

Very serious injuries occur frequently in and around a logging operation, and risk is intensified with storm damage, timber strewn all over.

• Be alert and aware. Be focused! Keep your mind on the business at hand!
• Always use the 3-point of contact technique while mounting and dismounting equipment.
• Keep platforms, steps, and handles free from grease, oil, and other foreign material.
• Maintain a firm grip while entering or exiting a machine.
• Proper footwear with good ankle support is mandatory. (No sneakers)
• Avoid climbing or walking on felled trees or limbs.
• Stay on the “uphill” side of felled timber and limbs.
• When not cutting, make sure the chain brake is engaged.

Safety considerations where blow-down or other storm damage is present.

1. Never put ground personnel at risk when the mechanical option is available. Fully enclosed equipment and rotational felling heads not only greatly reduce risk levels but also improve operational efficiency.       Pull-through and stroke delimbers, along with other mechanical processing equipment, increase safety and productivity on modern logging jobs. Take great care to observe safe work zones and always protect workers on the ground.
2. Use skidders to clean up storm damage, removing high-risk trees without using a chainsaw.
3. No one is allowed within 300 feet of a felling machine. Obviously, this mandatory rule is designed to reduce the risk of injuries from flying debris and falling timber.   Remember, the 300 feet rule is the industry standard for mechanical felling.   Again, it can’t be said enough -- Always use mechanical methods wherever possible during any storm clean-up.
4. If you arrive at a site shortly after storm damage occurs, there may still be some “settling” going on. Also, lodged trees, broken tops, and difficult ground conditions (walking through downed limbs and debris is particularly hazardous, especially if you are carrying a chainsaw) pose specific threats in a storm-damaged area.

Before entering the hazard areas, always use the five-part plan.

1. The first part of the plan is to check for overhead hazards. Is there anything above me that could hurt me? Do not place yourself in danger.
2. The second step in the plan is to check for spring poles. Be sure to look under the stem for “hidden” spring poles.
3. The third part of the plan is to determine whether it is a front load or a back load. Will the stem move forward, or spring back when a cut is made?
4. The fourth and most important step in the plan is to determine the side-load of the stem. The side-load identifies the “good side” or the “bad side” of a tree or limb. Keep your body on the good side or “compressed” side of the tree.       Compressed wood can be found on the inside of the bow or arch. The wood on the outside is being stretched and is the “tensioned” side of the tree. Remember – tension wood is the bad side. When tensioned wood is cut, the reaction is fast and, most of the time, very violent. You won’t be hurt if you stay away from the tensioned side.
5. The last step of the plan is the stem’s butt position. Is it elevated or flat on the ground? The position of the butt will determine the type of cut and body position you wind up with.

Four specialized cutting techniques are useful in tension-wood situations.

1. Top Lock. The top lock is used when pressure is observed. Always make the top cut first. If tension is present, the saw will start to be pinched or bound as it cuts down. Once this binding load is identified, make the second cut under the stem, offset to the butt end of the tree or limb. The offset creates a shelf or shoulder, which forms the "lock". Do not make the second cut towards the tree top, or the saw will be pinched.
   
   
2. Limb Lock. The inside cut is made first. Again, when pressure is noticed (compressed wood), make the second on the outside (tensioned wood). The cuts should be offset, which creates a shelf or a shoulder to keep the stored energy contained. Placement of your body is important. If possible, make this cut from the “good side” of the stem. If the cutter is forced to make this lock on the “bad side”, be sure to keep your legs back and away from the “swing path” of the limb just in case the lock fails.
   
   
3. Tongue and Groove Lock. It is used when there is a chance of the stem or top rolling, such as on steep terrain. Always keep your body on the "up-hill" side. The cutter may choose which side to set the tongue, as in the case of cutting grade logs. Use the attack portion of the saw to bore-cut, then make a top and bottom cut offset from the groove cut.
   
   
4. The last technique is for Spring Poles.      IF AT ALL POSSIBLE, LEAVE THEM ALONE. If you must cut a spring pole, identify the sweet spot. A cut there will neutralize the reaction forces.
    
   1. Your body needs to be at a 45-degree angle on the good side of the spring pole, away from the reaction.       Imagine a vertical line from the side of the pole, and a straight horizontal line at the top. The two lines intersect and form a 90-degree angle. Halfway between the lines is the 45-degree angle known as the “sweet spot” of the spring pole. At this point, you can cut it on the back side or the underside.
   2. If you “shave” under the bow, compressed fiber is released at a slower rate and could be considered safer than cutting on the back side. If you make the cut on the back of the pole, you are cutting tensioned wood, which releases quickly.
   3. After releasing pressure, trim the stem at ground level. Please remember, do not manually cut spring poles if mechanical equipment is available.
      
      
5. Another type of damage you may encounter is uprooted trees with the root system still attached. These pose a special problem. Their weight places pressure on the stem, and once they are released, they will likely flop back into the hole.